Classic singles, volume fans, and hybrid methods — from consultation to aftercare. If you've been avoiding bottom lashes, this is where that changes.

Why bottom lashes are worth adding to your menu

Bottom lash extensions are one of the most underutilised services in the industry — and that's exactly what makes them a competitive advantage. Done correctly, they add depth, drama, and a doe-eyed finish that clients fall in love with immediately.

Many lash artists avoid them out of fear: the lashes are small, the working area is tight, and clients can be fidgety. But with the right technique and a solid understanding of the anatomy involved, bottom lashes become one of your most satisfying and high-value add-ons. We recommend pricing them at $50–$70 AUD as an enhancement to a full top lash set.

Three methods, one tutorial

The full guide covers three distinct methods so you can match the right approach to every client. Method one is classic singles — one extension applied to one natural lash, creating a clean, defined result that's perfect for first-time clients or anyone wanting a refined rather than dramatic finish. Method two covers volume fans, using handmade 2D–3D fans from 0.03–0.05mm lashes for a wispy, feathered effect that photographs beautifully. Method three is the hybrid approach, combining classic singles and volume fans on the same lower lash line — ideal when a client has uneven lash distribution or wants a textured, dimensional result that sits somewhere between the two.

Each method includes step-by-step application instructions, placement guidance, and pro tips specific to working on the lower lash line.

The specs that matter most

Bottom lash extensions demand conservative sizing. A few non-negotiables before you even pick up a tweezer:

• Length: Extensions should extend no more than 1–2mm beyond the natural lash tip. Going longer causes a lever force on the root with every blink and kills retention.
• Diameter: 0.07mm for classic singles. 0.03–0.05mm for fans. Never use 0.10mm or above on bottom lashes.
• Curl: J or B curl as your default. Bottom lashes grow downward — a C or D curl will look immediately unnatural.
• Fans: Never exceed 3D on the bottom lash line. Heavier fans cause torsion, retention failure, and with repeated misapplication, permanent lash loss.

The full sizing, curl, and diameter reference guide is in the PDF — print it and keep it at your station.

The five retention killers to avoid

Bottom lash retention is naturally shorter than top lash retention. But poor technique makes it significantly worse. The most common culprits:

1. Skipping primer — the single biggest retention mistake in the industry
2. Placing extensions too close to the skin — the 0.5–1mm gap from the root is not negotiable
3. Using the wrong curl — C and D curls point upward and look artificial on lower lids
4. Leaving stickies unchecked — on bottom lashes these cause traction alopecia faster than you'd expect
5. Rushing isolation — slow, deliberate isolation is always faster in the long run
   
   

Setting client expectations on retention

Two to three weeks of good coverage before a fill is a realistic expectation — and clients should understand this before the service begins. What clients do at home has the single biggest impact on retention. Clean lashes, oil-free products, and no rubbing will outperform any application technique alone. The tutorial includes a full aftercare section you can deliver verbally and follow up in writing.

Download the Full Tutorial Here